You may recall that about this time last year The Guide took you along on the setup of an oar frame for a friend’s new raft. We only served you information on the frame, which admittedly is about like serving a potato without a steak, but we did promise to follow up soon with the steak. Fellow adventurers, soon is one of those words that can get a guy into trouble, because let’s face it. My soon may be different from your soon, especially when there’s adventuring to get to. Still, I do regret leaving things the way I left things, so in an attempt to set them right I offer not just the steak, but the steak and potato (I don’t eat steak anymore thanks to that fateful tick bite, but I’m not one to let details stand in the way of a good metaphor). Finally, I submit there’s only one way to approach a steak dinner, so let’s get to it!
Last week I undertook a long overdue project, finishing up my own frame.
But Deuce, you’ve been rowing that raft for years. You must have a frame.
Very true, but I’ve been rowing from an incomplete one. Let me explain. My frame is modular, which means it’s made of pipe and fittings that can be adjusted as necessary to accommodate different sized dry boxes, coolers and drop bags (more on this later). It can also be completely disassembled and packaged for transport by plane or pack mule for backcountry adventures.
Partially Disassembled Modular Frame
It can even be adapted for use on rafts of varying sizes, and all that’s required for any of these adjustments is a hex key.
Raft Frame T Fitting. Note the recessed set screws.
Sounds great! What’s the catch?
Ah, the catch. There’s always a catch, isn’t there? Modular frames aren’t as structurally sound as welded ones, which means if the raft flips and is subjected to the right kinds of hydraulic forces the frame can be not so gently taken apart by the river. Granted, the forces required are significant, but they do merit consideration, hence the added safety feature of pins, which I’d never gotten around to installing. Shame on me!
These were supposed to be in the frame, not the dry box.
I drilled the necessary holes, installed the pins and reassembled the frame. Then I turned my attention to the raft, and Blue Steel was in sore need of some TLC. When it comes to rafts one of the worst things one can do is store them in the sun. Fortunately this is not an issue for the Arkansas Adventure Guide crew as we have the boatport, but this doesn’t mean we can simply leave the rubber to its own devices if we want the boat to enjoy a long and happy life of river running. Raft material doesn’t need much in the way of maintenance, but an occasional wipe down is essential to remove harmful contaminants like sunscreen. Also, rodents love to make homes in rafts. That’s not so bad I guess, except they inevitably leave behind little holes, and holes (even little ones) and rafts do not mix. The best defense against rodent squatters is the elimination of attractive smells left behind by things like beer and peanut butter. Following the wipe-down an application of 303 Aerospace Protectant is a prudent measure to take. So, I took it! Once the 303 had soaked in I reunited raft and frame.
Blue Steel after wipe-down, 303 application and reinstallation of newly pinned and squared up frame. Pretty slick!
I’ll be honest. I only undertook this endeavor because a good friend asked if they might borrow Blue Steel in the near future, and frankly I would’ve been a little embarrassed by his condition had I not. But, he’s in fighting shape now and ready for exhibition, so let’s take a little tour, shall we?
The frame is held in place by cam straps run through D rings. Additional measures are sometimes taken for very intense whitewater.
Oar Towers and Oar Locks. The oar locks swivel in the towers. Note the set screws. There are five per tower.
One Oar In Its Lock. Note the oar tether (gray loop strap). The other end goes into the cam buckle on the other half of the loop strap which is attached to the frame (below). This is intended to prevent loss of the oar if the shaft escapes the oar lock.
Other Half of the Oar Tether
Drop Bag. A drop bag comes with cam straps sewn into it. The straps are wrapped around frame rails then run through the attached cam buckles. Drop bags are very burly and capable of holding many pounds of gear.
River Table. Commercially made river tables are available, or homemade versions like this one can be fashioned from plywood and table legs. Note the slots cut into the end and the cam straps run through them and around the frame. The table covers the drop bag.
On our raft the river table also serves as the front seat, or as we like to call it, the princess pad. There’s room for three up there, and we strap the Aire Landing Pads over it for padding. Cushy!
As you can see, Izzy the Adventure Dog approves of the princess pad!
The bay behind the princess pad is where the cooler goes. Some coolers are designed to drop directly onto the frame while others require additional rigging (or a drop bag). The blue zip case to the left is the captain’s bag where we keep maps, sunscreen and unruly children. Note the foot bar beside the captain’s bag. It provides a point for the oarsperson to brace against when necessary and can also be stood on for an elevated view when boat scouting rapids.
Dry Box. Note the tabs welded onto the corners. The box simply drops into the bay and rests on them. On our raft it goes in the rear bay and the oarsperson rows from it. Note: not all rafts are rigged this way.
Top-off Pump. Blue Steel lives inflated on a trailer, but air pressure can vary with temperature swings (air and water) and other factors. We carry a K-Pump for top-offs and in case a repair necessitates reinflation.
Blue Steel weighs over 135 pounds without the frame and accoutrements. In a pinch these rollers enable to me to get him onto the trailer without assistance (though assistance is definitely preferred).
That’s it! On rare occasions I remove the frame and install the thwarts for paddle rafting, but not very often because – well – it’s a hassle! If you’re wondering whether Blue Steel is overkill for Arkansas rivers I will say; yes and no. Is an oar rig necessary to float camp the Buffalo or the Ouachita? Of course not, but it sure makes it more fun, and that big boy comes in mighty handy on river clean-ups. Perhaps best of all though, Blue Steel allows me to take people to places they wouldn’t otherwise be able to go, and I’ve said it before. The only way to improve an Arkansas adventure is to add more adventurers.
See you out there!
Deuce
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I can’t believe you didn’t explain why the captain’s chair looks the way it does. Perfect excuse for a…..squirrel…..side story. lol
Duck!
glad you mentioned that in the end on weight. guesstimating as i read and thought geesh got to be heavy after. what lowest water level do you go by
April, thanks for reaching out! The short answer to your question is… it depends. You’d probably be surprised by how shallow a raft will draft. To give you a better answer I’d need a specific reach on a specific river.
okay i can see why it would be that way
Thanks April. I’m available any time you have a question regarding the level on a river you’re considering.